Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine is a Greektown gem worthy of its accolades

Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine
820 W. Jackson, Chicago
312.714.1001
http://www.venuschicago.com/

Hours:
4 p.m.-11 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.
4 p.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat
noon-10 p.m., Sun.
Entrée price range: $10.95 - $27.95

Greektown. This iconic neighborhood brings visions of festive food and drink to the minds of Chicagoans. Although most people tend to think of Greektown as a strip of restaurants on Halsted, there are some interesting things to see on the side streets as well. Most noticeably, in our minds, is Venus Greek Cypriot Cuisine, an exceptional restaurant tucked just around the corner from Halsted, on West Jackson. This popular mainstay has received consistently good reviews, for good reason. The restaurant serves up food that’s not your typical Greek fare, although it’s close enough to justify its Greektown location.

The difference is that Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine features the food of Cyprus. This Mediterranean island state has been a cultural crossroads for thousands of years, and the food reflects it. Cyprus was as influenced by Middle Eastern nations such as Lebanon as much as it was by Greece. While the food is similar to Greek food, the spices and ingredients are noticeably different. To our palate, Cypriot food is slightly more refined and the flavors are a bit more subtle and complex. All this translates into delicious food that sets Venus apart from its Greek counterparts.

The décor is clearly Mediterranean and casual. Bright pastel colors dominate the walls and compliment the tile floors. To one side is the bar area. The bar is designed to replicate the shape of a Greek sailing ship and there is a sizeable collection of regulars who stop by for a cocktail after work and during the evening hours. The main dining room is large and divided into smaller sections through the use of recessed and raised floors. Although there is no separate private dining room, it is easy to use one of these dining spaces as a semi-private group dining area.

The menu offers a very generous selection of freshly prepared, made from scratch items. One could easily enjoy a wonderful feast by combining a variety of hot and cold appetizers, but that would take away the comforting enjoyment of some of the signature entrees. So, don’t rush. We recommend savoring your meal slowly for maximum pleasure and sharing the food with your dinner companions. Start with a few appetizers and a glass of wine, then enjoy a salad or two, and then indulge in a robust main course. Be sure to save room for dessert, for they are a treat.

There are fourteen cold appetizers on the menu. We love the dips, which go perfectly with pita. Our favorites are the Talatouri (a Cypriot version of Tzatziki) which is a yogurt spread with cucumber and mint and the Taramosalata, a creamy fish roe spread blended with olive oil, lemon and bread. Another excellent cold app is the Octapodi Salata with diced octopus, onions, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

There are 21 hot appetizers on the menu. You can order the traditional Saganaki (flaming Greek cheese) but we recommend that you instead go with the delicious Sakagani Halloumi, which is baked imported Cypriot cheese with a smooth texture and a wonderful subtle flavor. If you like stuffed grape leaves, you’re in for a pleasant surprise with the Koupepia, a Cypriot version stuffed with ground pork and rice, served with yogurt. Amazing.

Among the other hot apps we like are the simple but delicious Octopadi Sti Schara, grilled baby octopus on a bed of lettuce with vinegar, the Marides (breaded smelts), and the Triopitakia, phyllo dough filled with a cheese mixture.

In the soups and salads department, you will enjoy the traditional Avgolemono (egg lemon rice soup) and there are several small salads, including Kipriaki, a traditional Cypriot salad with chopped lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh green onions, capers and cilantro in a house dressing. Another nice salad choice is the Aphrodite, with mixed greens, tomatoes, pine nuts, roasted peppers, boiled egg, kefalotiri cheese in a balsamic wine dressing.

On to the main courses. You’ll have no trouble finding something for everyone in your group; there are 46 entrees, which run the gamut from grilled meats, to slow cooked roasted meats, poultry delights, seafood specialties, pastas, vegetarian dishes and some American entrées. If we were to choose a single signature entrée, we would pick the Kleftiko, a Cypriot lamb dish. The lamb is slow cooked in foil for six hours. We also love the hearty Pastitsio Tsoukas, layers of ground beef and pasta topped with a homemade béchamel sauce. But there are so many excellent dishes that you can feel quite comfortable ordering whatever fits your mood.

Desserts are a special treat. The delicious Baklavas is prepared with a Cypriot touch, where walnuts add a subtle twist. The Galaktoboureko is a sumptuous homemade egg custard in phyllo dough.

With all of the food being so shareable, Venus is a terrific spot for a party or dinner celebration. Tell them you want a family style event and they will prepare a feast that will have your guests begging for more.

Note: DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you'd like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact mailto: dinewise@kurman.com.  If you enjoy reading DineWise, perhaps you'd enjoy reading our other blog Got Buzz.  Please check it out.