616 N. Rush St., Chicago
(312) 660-6000
http://www.davidburkesprimehouse.com/
Hours:
Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Mon.-Sat.
Sunset: 3-5 p.m., daily
Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 5:30-10:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; 5:30-9 p.m., Sun.
Brunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m., Sun.
By Cindy Kurman and Lee Barrie
It always amazes us at the number of steakhouse offerings there are in Chicago. Judging by the numbers, we are clearly the steakhouse capital. Chicagoans love their meat and potatoes.
One relative newcomer to the steakhouse scene is David Burke’s Primehouse, located in the chic James Hotel in River North. Primehouse is a hip, contemporary version with non-traditional selections alongside old favorites.
Having just left the adjacent JBar, where yours truly (Cindy) was honored as a Media Maven, we were still hungry and so we went next door, where the staff graciously welcomed us even without a reservation. The room is contemporary, comfortable and warmly appointed.
Our meal began with a delicious fresh-from-the-oven popover—a real treat. Primehouse makes a killer Caesar salad, which they prepared for us tableside (we added a topping of white anchovies). We even had complimentary Surf & Turf Dumplings (angry lobster, lemon, chives, crispy basil braised short rib, horseradish cheddar), thanks to an iPhone promotion on Foursquare. Yum.
We try not to overdo our portions and Primehouse had no problem letting us share a 20-oz. bone-in Filet Mignon, which was plenty, considering the ala carte accompaniments we ordered. The waiter even sliced it for us tableside and exec chef Rick Gresh sent out a variety of toppers including Béarnaise and three mousses: horseradish, blue cheese and truffle. All are excellent accompaniments to the perfectly prepared medium-rare dry aged steak. We loved the easily shareable roasted mushrooms, the asparagus and shallot side dish and the basil mashed potatoes. And, yes, we brought the bone home to our dog, Truffle, who was immediately in canine heaven.
We particularly like Filet Mignon, which is so tender it doesn’t need a lot of aging. But for those of you who like your Ribeye, Kansas City, Delmonico, Sirloin and other cuts, Primehouse dry ages them from 28-75 days in their own dry aging cellar, tiled with organic Himalayan salt blocks to absorb moisture. The waiter proudly explained how Primehouse grows its own meat. They own their own prime bull, “Prime,” who lives on Creekstone Farms in Kentucky. “Prime” happily sires all the prime beef sold at the restaurant.
Although prime dry aged beef is the headliner here, there are several other seriously good contemporary choices for those who prefer something else. Appetizer choices include Miso Glazed Scallops with lobster fried rice and Thai peppers; Lobster Pasta with arugula, cherry tomatoes, chanterelle mushrooms, strozzapreti pasta and truffle butter; Pan Roasted Baby Octopus with roasted peppers, chickpeas, grilled onions, charred tomatoes and black olives; Pan Roasted Veal Sweetbreads with roasted fennel, polenta and warm coriander vinaigrette.
For entrées, there are several poultry, lamb, fish and seafood selections, such as Seawater Brined Half Chicken, semi boneless, with basil whipped potatoes, asparagus and roasted garlic jus; Roasted Lamb Rack, with cavetelli “mac n cheese,” and almond mint pesto. Fish lovers will enjoy the Seared Alaskan King Salmon, with bok choy, shrimp and pork dumplings, wonton broth, and the Pan Roasted Red Snapper, with dry aged kobe paprika sausage, clams, garlic & grilled artichokes.
For dessert, we enjoyed a sampling of cheeses from the generous selection (Chef Gresh is a cheese aficionado and clearly knows what he’s doing) and the amazing homemade doughnut holes, accompanied by three small squeeze bottles of fillings (fill your own doughnuts—a fun touch.)
Keep in mind that prime beef can be pricy, so expect to pay around $50 or more per person for dinner. It’s a bit expensive, but rest assured that Primehouse’s pricing is in keeping with other prime steakhouses in Chicago. For your dollar, you get a very creative and contemporary experience and excellent service in an atmosphere that works for business as well as that special date.
Note: DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you'd like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact mailto: dinewise@kurman.com. If you enjoy reading DineWise, perhaps you'd enjoy reading our other blog Got Buzz. Please check it out.
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