Saigon Sisters: Making its mark with delicious modern Vietnamese cuisine in Chicago

Saigon Sisters

567 W. Lake St., Chicago                                                                                          

(312) 496-0090; www.saigonsisters.com

Hours: Lunch/late lunch, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Mon.-Fri.; Dinner/after hours: 5-10 p.m., Mon.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat.

Chicago French Market location (lunch only): 10 a.m.- 7:30 p.m.; Mon.-Fri.; 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat.

Prices: lunch sandwiches, $7-8; dinner entrees: $12-$19

You should get to know Mary Nguyen Aregoni and Theresa Nguyen. They’re so not clichés. They are, in fact, Vietnamese sisters who own Saigon Sisters, the Vietnamese restaurants. The first location is a very popular kiosk at the Chicago French Market. The new, second location is a sit-down restaurant a couple of blocks north, at Lake and Clinton.

Why do we say these delightful ladies are not clichés? After all, there are many, many immigrant families who start their lives in America by opening a neighborhood ethnic restaurant. What makes the Nguyen sisters unique is that they came to Chicago as kids and became quite assimilated into the American lifestyle. Then they did what most American kids do—they pursued “normal” careers. After college, Mary wound up in marketing at Procter & Gamble, while Theresa went to New York to pursue her career in fashion design.

Only then did they go back to their roots by opening a neighborhood ethnic restaurant. In 2009, after, months and months of planning, they formulated their Saigon Sisters concept. They started in the new Chicago French Market, serving lunch only. They chose traditional ingredients, but they use ingredients the way so many of Chicago’s best chefs use them—creatively, with a modern twist. It works. Saigon Sisters has become one of the most successful vendors at the Market.

But the story doesn’t end there. Phase two of their nontraditional American dream kicked in when they began planning a second location, independent of the French Market. Their goal was to offer the same delicious food during lunchtime but take it up a notch or two for dinner. This is where the story gets interesting. They began a search for the right chef and they found it in the young, very personable Matt Everson, who has paid his culinary dues at Charlie Trotter’s and May Street Market, among others. He’s ambitious, he knows a thing or two about excellent cooking, and he loves Asian cuisine.

Working as a team, the sisters and the staff (along with their mother, Mama Nguyen, herself an entrepreneurial success who had a large, thriving marketplace in Saigon), have designed a dinner menu that takes Vietnamese cooking to a beautiful and delicious level. They’ve also kept to their dream of having a casual, come-as-you-are place. The food is great and the atmosphere is hip, unpretentious and totally casual.

The space is small (only 32 seats) but the 20-foot ceilings give diners an amazing feeling of space and the floor-to-ceiling windows provide a surreal (i.e. great) view of Chicago’s “L” tracks and surrounding buildings, especially at night. The seating is contemporary, woodsy and comfortable. The place and the people exude warmth, making it a fun gathering place.

The food?  At lunchtime Saigon Sisters gets busy, as people enjoy the variety of foods that are arguably better than they have had at other Vietnamese restaurants. The lunchtime draws are Bánh Bao (steamed rice buns), Phở (noodle and broth dishes), Bánh Mi (sandwiches), and Gòi Cuón (spring rolls; choose shrimp or tofu).

The Bánh Bao are served open faced (taco style). If you get a full order of three, you get a complete meal with ample vegetables and protein; quite filling, perfect for lunchtime. Choose from Caramelized Chicken, Hoisin glazed pork belly or Wagyu beef in coconut milk.

The Phở (pronounced “fuh”, in case you haven’t been told) portions are large. Pho choices include Beef Phở (sliced beef flank, beef meatball), Vegetarian Phở (sliced tofu & veggies), and Chicken Phở (poached chicken & garlic chips).

We love, love, love the Banh Mi sandwiches, which are large, filled with tempting flavor combinations. Typically we will buy two, cut them in half and share. Among our favorites are the Classic (American ham, French country pate, mayo), The Porky Glazed Pork Belly (braised pork belly, pho flavors, hoisin glaze, mayo), The Frenchman (duck confit, pickled mustard seeds, candied kumquat, rouille), the Vegetarian (lemongrass, teriyaki tofu, red peppers), and the Sun Tanned Cow (coconut milk, braised Wagyu beef, kaffir lime leaf).

Once evening arrives, the bustling sandwich-shop atmosphere is transformed into a dinnertime foodie’s delight. Candlelight bathes the tables and the mood is sensual and relaxed. It’s also time for executive chef Matt Everson and his culinary team to delight your taste buds as well as your eyes.

The dinner menu allows guests to sample some traditional Vietnamese dishes or take a more adventurous journey through the contemporary interpretations. For starters you can enjoy house-made charcuterie, easily shareable, featuring selections chosen by the chef. Another popular beginning is the Caramel Chicken Wings, crispy drummettes and wings in caramel sauce, with lemongrass, ginger and red chiles. These are not your typical chicken wings! We also love the Green Papaya Salad, with cherry tomatoes, red chiles, Thai basil in nuoc cham dressing. It’s a large portion, making it work as a shared appetizer or a vegetarian entrée. 

Meat dishes include a delicious Lab Luc Lac, lamb tenderloin seared in XO sauce, with watercress, red onions and broken rice. The watercress is the perfect tangy accompaniment to the sweet lamb. Another delight is the Braised Short Ribs, in tomato sauce, lemongrass, star anise, pickled okra, carrots and pearl onions.

Fish and seafood lovers can indulge in the Lobster Fritter on Sugar Cane, which includes lobster, shrimp mousse, fennel, chayote, with kohlrabi salad and lime ginger dressing. Another dish that can serve as a shared app or a full entrée is the Tuna Tartar, made with grapefruit confit, pickled ginger, scallion oil and a crisp lotus chip. If you’re an octopus fan, you won’t want to miss the Baby Octopus, perfectly grilled confit octopus, togarashi, and black cuttlefish ink rice. A Saigon Sisters specialty is the Sesame Sardines, grilled whole sardines with peppery greens in a sesame lime dressing.

There are a number of vegetarian selections such as Black Pepper Tofu and Rice, with shallot butter sauce, garlic, ginger, black pepper, soy sauce and broken rice.

The dessert of note is Che, a smooth butternut squash, coconut milk custard, with sticky rice, vanilla beans and a taro chip. It is unique and delicious; highly recommended. 

Saigon Sisters offers an atypical (i.e. good) beverage menu, which includes G.U.S. Sodas (wonderful, low sugar, all natural); Nirvana Coconut Water, Orange Aranciata and Vietnamese Coffee. For now it’s B.Y.O.B. until the liquor license comes through. 

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.blogspot.com.

Photos by Cindy Kurman

Bon Appetit and Chicago Gourmet Dine Around

The Bon Appétit and Chicago Gourmet Dine Around extends the event beyond Millennium Park into some of the city’s best restaurants.  Special prix-fixe menus will be available at participating restaurants offering guests not only a unique dining experience but a chance to earn a free ticket to Chicago Gourmet.  Guests who purchase five meals during the Dine Around period, Monday, August 30 through Sunday, September 26, at any participating restaurant must attach a copy of their receipt to their receipt holder in order to redeem a complimentary ticket to Chicago Gourmet.  Receipts must be presented at registration the day of the event in order to redeem your one-day pass.     2010 Dine Around restaurants: Aja aria Balsan at the Elysian Hotel Bittersweet Pastry Shop & Cafe Boka Restaurant Branch 27 C-House Café des Architectes at Sofitel Chicago Water Tower cibo mattoCourtright’s Restaurant Firefly Grill Green Zebra Harry Caray's Italian SteakhouseHenri Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House, Chicago Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House, Naperville Keefer's Restaurant L2O Lao Beijing LM Restaurant LUXBAR May St. Café & Catering Mercat a la Planxa Mexique Morton’s The Steakhouse N9NE Steakhouse NoMI Oceanique Restaurant Old Town Social one sixtyblue Park Grill  Perennial Restaurant Phil Stefani’s 437 Rush Piccolo Sogno Prairie Fire Prosecco Province Quartino RIVA at Navy Pier RL Rockit Bar & Grill Seasons, Four Seasons Hotel Chicago Sixteen Sola Spring Restaurant Sunda New Asian SUSHI SAMBA rio Takashi Tavern at the Park Tavern on Rush The Bristol The Dining Room at Kendall College The Gage The Metropolitan Club The Parrot Cage Restaurant The Signature Room at the 95th Vie The list of Dine Around restaurants continues to grow. Check here for more information.

Amelia’s Mestizo Grill is an oasis of culinary treasure in the historic Stockyards neighborhood

Amelia’s Mestizo Grill
4559 S. Halsted, Chicago
(773) 538-8200; www.ameliaschicago.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon.-Fri.; 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat.; 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun.
Prices: entrées, $17-$24

Driving south on Halsted to the historic Stockyards area, we were not expecting the warm, sophisticated and gracious atmosphere that greeted us; it’s a tribute to owners Leo and Eusevio Garcia that they have created such a comforting respite in a relatively industrial, stark neighborhood. Through word of mouth, Amelia’s Mestizo Grill has become a beloved destination restaurant for many Chicagoans, and the Garcias have clearly put much heart and soul into it. They are passionate about their food and their desire to please their guests. The beautiful exposed brick walls are generously decorated with Mexican art, the seating is very comfortable and the service is thoughtful and considerate.

Amelia’s Mestizo Grill presents a sophisticated blend of southern central Mexican and European cuisine, much like the food one would enjoy in cosmopolitan Mexico City. They are using authentic, fresh ingredients and have refined the food with subtle seasonings and flavor combination's that make the dining experience memorable. In keeping with the beautiful décor, the food is handsomely presented as well.

We chose some popular dishes as well as some we couldn’t resist because they sounded so good. The menu is extensive. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of everything.

To start your meal, there is a more than ample choice of appetizers, salads and soups, with more than enough variety to please everyone and great for sharing. We loved the Taquitos de Cangrejo, which were more like spring rolls: crabmeat rolled in rice paper, with papaya, cilantro, basil, fresh mint, peanuts and spicy mango. Three other great starters were the Tamal Nejo (ash layered tamal with spicy black bean puree and red mole sauce and sheared chicken), the Croquetas Fritas (artichoke corn fritters, squash blossoms, epazote and salsa cruda), and the Quesadilla de Huitlacoche (corn truffle, Chihuahua cheese, epazote, roasted corn and black bean salad with tomato salad). The guacamole had a nice touch of heat to liven things up. Some other choices to whet your appetite include the Eggplant Empanada (roasted eggplant, caviar, sun dried tomato, baby arugula salad, goat cheese and basil pesto), and the popular Queso Fundido and Ceviche.

Entrées were equally delicious. We were thrilled with an entrée special, crispy Peking Duck topped with a subtle, spicy Mexican sauce. Another clear winner was the Lomo de Puerco (grilled pork tenderloin with fava beans, andouille sausage, baby spinach in a spicy ciruela sauce) which was well balanced and perfectly prepared, although we recommend getting it medium rare rather than medium.

On the seafood side, we also loved the Camarones Ala Pipiana (sautéed shrimp served in green mole with plaintains). Other great sounding entrée selections include Cordero Al Carbon (grilled baby lamb chops, polenta cake, roasted tomatoes, asparagus salad in a chipotle pasilla reduction), Raviolis de Queso de Cabra (goat cheese stuffed ravioli, stir fry, eggplant, green peas, cherry tomatoes and basil pesto), and Pescado Empapelado (tilapia wrapped in foil, steamed with nopales, chorizo and epazote, served with rice and grilled banana).

The dessert menu is also quite intriguing. We loved the chocolate infused tres leches cake with coconut ice cream, which was beautifully presented.

Keep in mind that weekend brunch is also very extensive, offering some of the same starters and entrees as on the dinner menu, as well as some delicious brunch specials. Special brunch egg dishes include Heuvos Al jardin (two poached eggs, grilled Portobello mushrooms, Mexican zucchini and red pepper hollandaise sauce), San Pedro Omelet (crab meat, roasted corn, quelites and muenster cheese), Halsted Omelet (avocado, pico de gallo, spinach and feta cheese) and the Frittata, an egg white soufflé with artichoke hearts, spinach, cherry tomatoes and pesto.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.blogspot.com. Follow us on Twitter @Dinewise.

Deleece: this restaurant was always good, but now it’s approaching amazing

Deleece

4004 N. Southport, Chicago

(773) 325-1710; www.deleece.com

Hours: 5:30-10 p.m., Mon.; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m., Tues., Wed., Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Fri.; 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Sat.; 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m., Sun.

Prices: most entrees are under than $20 and every Monday and Tuesday, Deleece features a three course special for $20!

It’s always a pleasure to write about a neighborhood spot that’s so good it’s worth a drive or L-ride, no matter where you live. So we’re happy to report that Deleece, a favorite among Lakeview residents since 1995, is better than ever and definitely worth the journey. A casual and beautifully artistic restaurant, owned by husband and wife team Lynne Wallack and John Handler, Deleece specializes in good contemporary American cuisine. With a foundation in American comforts, the restaurant brings a creative, global sensibility to its menu. The quality of the food has always set it apart from the bulk of even good neighborhood restaurants and these days, it has raised the bar even further. And topping off the good news, the menu continues to be very reasonably priced.

Four months ago, Deleece brought in a new chef, Brandon Canfield, who was recently at mk in Chicago but has also cooked in New York and San Francisco. His food is exceptional and we hope he has found a long term home at Deleece. We dined there very recently and we were very, very pleased, indeed. Canfield’s seasonal menu emphasizes fresh, local ingredients and he continues the tradition of presenting a wide assortment of flavors to please everyone.

Reading the menu, the dishes sound interesting, but not necessarily out of this world. In truth, the food is marvelous and brings the menu to life in a way we couldn’t have anticipated. We started our meal with an appetizer and salad. The Herbed Ricotta Gnocchi, with fava beans, maitake mushrooms, in white wine butter, was delicious. The gnocchi were perfectly done (not an easy feat) and the flavors were complex and fresh. The Arugula Salad was a culinary composition that was even better than the sum of its delicious parts. The honey-champagne dressing had a tantalizing sweet tartness, the honey glazed figs were a treat and, topped with a rich Stilton blue cheese, the salad was one of the best we’ve had in a long time.

We both ordered the Caramelized Salmon, a nicely-sized fillet, pan roasted with a somewhat sweet, teriyaki-like glaze, served with herbed black Chinese rice and a tasty sauté of fresh spinach and leeks in a pear ginger sauce. We were very, very happy. We asked for medium rare salmon and that’s what we got. We savored every bite, for this was one of the best salmon preparations we have ever had.

So, without dwelling on the many superlatives at Deleece, let’s run down other menu items, but keep in mind that the menu will change frequently and there are daily specials. Other current appetizer choices include Crab Risotto Cakes with truffle aioli; Chicken and Vegetable Potstickers with ginger, coriander, mustard seeds and honey; Rosemary Scented Polenta layered with sun-dried tomato and garlic pesto, wilted spinach and Ancho chili oil; Veggie spring rolls in butter lettuce salsa verde and nuoc cham.

Salad selections also include California Butter Lettuce with spiced walnuts, goat cheese, roasted peppers in a sherry vinaigrette; a Caesar salad with polenta croutons, and an entrée-sized Szechwan Salad with New York strip, napa cabbage, red cabbage, carrots, red peppers, peanuts, fried rice noodles in a basil-cilantro-mint dressing.

Additional entrées include Boneless Half Amish Chicken with a salad of fingerling potato, caramelized onion, bacon and celery, in a fig mostarda sauce; Grilled Pork Tenderloin stuffed with spinach and bacon, garlic green beans, savory apple bread pudding and champagne-caramel demi glace; Grilled New York Strip with sautéed spinach, truffle mashed potatoes and port wine demi glace. Fish lovers should also try the Grilled Halibut Steak with peas, baby carrots, chickpea fries and arugula-mint pesto. Note also that many of the sides which come with the entrées are available ala carte as well.

Deleece also presents a special $20 three-course prix fixe dinner menu on Mondays and Tuesdays and bottles of wine are half-priced on Wednesdays. There is a kids menu and the restaurant is family-friendly, without a nice outdoor seating area.

Also keep in mind that there is a second Deleece restaurant: Deleece Grill Pub, at 3313 N. Clark in Wrigleyville, which focuses more on high-quality burgers, mac-and-cheese other comfort fare.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.blogspot.com. You can follow us on Twitter @DineWise.

Zealous: Michael Taus is passionate and consistent in offering a serene, imaginative fine dining experience

Zealous Restaurant
419 W. Superior St., Chicago
(312) 475-9112, www.zealousrestaurant.com

Hours: 5:00-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; open select Sundays and Mondays
Prices: Ala carte entrées, $15-$39; Tasting menus: five course, $75; seven course, $90; Spontaneous Seven Course Chef's Table Menu, $125

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine

One of the best compliments we can give to a chef/owner is that all the dishes ordered by a table for four were consistently delicious. Such was the case recently when we stopped by Zealous, a beautifully serene, contemporary American restaurant that is the passion of chef/owner Michael Taus. Zealous has, notably, been popular among Chicago’s food lovers for many years. This is no easy thing to accomplish in Chicago’s highly competitive fine dining arena. Staying power means a lot.

Taus is very hands on about what he does and he’s very appreciative of his customers, many of whom are long time regulars. Zealous is one of those places that works well in a variety of contexts. It’s a romantic and relaxed date spot but it’s also a pleasing way to entertain a group for a special celebration. The semi-private chef’s table is in the middle of the dining room, situated so that a group can have some privacy and still experience Zealous’s airy spaciousness. As a spot to discuss business, Zealous offers a conversation friendly atmosphere and creative food that will help stimulate any discussion.

With that introduction, let’s get down to the food, which is creative and complex without being stuffy or pretentious. Taus is an authentically good contemporary American chef: he stays tied to the roots of American food but brings a wide range of global interpretations into play. The seasonal menu offers Taus’ creations in a variety of assortments. You can order ala carte from the generous regular menu or choose either a five or seven course tasting menu. What’s great about this is you can spend a relatively modest sum and enjoy a really fine meal or you can splurge a bit and immerse yourself in a wondrous culinary journey.

Take your pick—either path is scenic and it makes Zealous a restaurant that you can come back to on a fairly regular basis.

To start our meal, we were offered Zealous’ addictively good soft signature rolls—pleasantly herbed and freshly made in house. We asked our attentive server to keep the rolls coming, which she did throughout the meal and it was such a treat. First course selections are beautifully presented and the flavor combinations are surprising in a good way yet accessible. We enjoyed the Flatbread with duck confit, caramelized Cipollini, fresh Ricotta, petit basque, topped with a green apple & frisee salad. We also loved the Blue Crab Cake “Sandwich” with dill toast and whole grain mustard-tarragon sauce. Our dinner companion ordered the Polynesian Chopped Salad of Romaine, hearts of palm, Panko crusted tiger shrimp, macadamia nuts. He loved it so much he kept it all to himself, not accepting any tastings of the other appetizers. We chuckled at his pure enjoyment.

For entrées, we had the truly outstanding Sesame Crusted Chilean Sea Bass with pan-fried rice noodles and red coconut curry sauce. The sea bass was topped with a beautiful coating of black and white sesame seeds that added a nice crunch to the tender and moist fish. We also ordered the Grilled Salmon with Pear-Kohlrabi Savory Tart & Apple Cider Nage. It was nicely chosen combination. The salmon, served rare, was delicate and the tart added a hearty, sweet touch that perfectly complemented the fish. Another fine entrée was the Grilled Beef Filet with Exotic Mushroom-Potato Lasagne & Truffle Reduction. This was no pedestrian steak—the beef was exceedingly tender, delicately sauced and the dish was nicely rounded off by the mushroom-potato lasagna.

To fully experience Taus’ creativity and attention to quality, you’ll have to stop by for another meal or two (or three). Here are some other dishes that are worth your consideration: For appetizers, you might want to try Duo Seared Sea Scallop, Braised Pork Belly and Sunchoke Puree; Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, White Sturgeon Caviar, Avocado Mousse & Cauliflower Blinis, or the Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Braised Shortrib, Chilled Vichyssoise Puree. For entrées, you should also consider the Prime 16 oz. Rib-Eye with Creamed Spinach Gratin and Truffle Potato Croquettes; Seared Duck Breast with Shiitake Mushroom-Confit Mushu and Hoisin Glaze, and the amazing Z' Burger with Havarti Cheese, Tomato Rémoulade on House Made Dill Roll. We mention the Z Burger because it’s made from the same custom designed ground beef blend that’s used at Taus’ other restaurant, the more casual bistro, DuChamps. He brought it to Zealous by popular demand.

If you’re dining vegetarian style, you’ll be pleased with Taus’ attention to your palate: There is a five-course vegetarian tasting menu or, if you’re dining ala carte, try Tagliatelle Pasta with Braised Baby Goat Ragout, Artichokes, Olives, Tomatoes & Aged Goat Cheese, or the Eggplant Gateau with Greek Style Green Beans, Petite Tomato and Feta Cheese Salad.

As you come to your meal’s finale, you’ll be pleased at Zealous’ unique dessert renditions. Chocolate lovers will enjoy the Valrhona Chocolate-Almond 'Opera" Cake with Espresso Ice Cream and Chocolate Brittle or the Caramelized Banana Tiramisu with Macadamia Nut Brittle Crust and Chocolate Biscotti. If you’re looking for a fruit-focused dessert, try the Ginger-Spiced Poached Pear, Fromage Blanc Layer Cake with Pecan Granola Crisp, Granny Smith Apple Brown Butter Custard Tart with Goldschlager Ice Cream or the Brûléed Key-Lime Tart with Créme Chantilly and Mixed Berries.

Also keep in mind that Zealous offers one of Chicago’s finest wine collections, including many by the glass, and there is also a nicely conceived signature cocktail menu.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. For more information, please call (312) 651-9000 or stay in the know by visiting their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com. For more DineWise features, subscribe to http://dinewisechicago.blogspot.com. You can also follow us on Twitter @DineWise and @KurmanStaff, @LeeBarrie and @PRCindy.

A Korean-Japanese couple has created two heavenly restaurants that are intimate and special

Chiyo
3800 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago
(773) 267-1555
www.chiyorestaurant.com
Hours: 4-11 p.m., Tues.-Sat.; 4-10 p.m., Sun. Closed on Mondays.

Chicago Kalbi
3752 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago
(773) 604-8183
www.chicago-kalbi.com
Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight, Mon. and Wed.-Sun. Closed on Tuesdays.

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine


Her name is Chiyo. She was born in Korea but raised in Japan. Her husband, Iso, is Japanese and a chef. With their two restaurants, a half a block from each other on West Lawrence, Chicagoans have discovered what is often difficult to find: an authentically Japanese food experience, and a spot for Asian BBQ that is lighter and more delicious than most. The food is prepared with a loving touch and the restaurants are handsome, intimate and offer superb service. Quality and service are the hallmarks here.

We first became acquainted with Chiyo (the person as well as her namesake restaurant) when our close friends invited us to try a “special” Japanese eatery. Since we love sushi, it was a no-brainer. What we didn’t expect was the warm décor and the cordial attention we received. When we opened the menu—which features far more than sushi, we were amazed at the unique items we had never eaten before.

Chiyo offers a more authentic Japanese food experience than most Chicago restaurants. People visiting Chicago from Japan seek out the restaurant, and food lovers marvel at the unique tastes and textures. From freshly prepared sushi and sashimi to the hot dishes cooked at the table, Chiyo offers a wide choice, making it a very festive dining experience.

The Ippin Ryori, Japanese style tapas, are starters featuring ingredients and tasty flavor combinations you may not have had before. Paired with a bottle of cold sake, they are an adventure unto themselves. Among our favorites are Kanisu (crab meat with cucumbers in vinegar), Ankimo (monkfish liver with ponzu sauce) and the amazing Spicy Seafood Salad.

The house specialties are the hot meals cooked at the table. Shabu Shabu features thin slices of beef cooked in boiling water and dipped in either a sesame or ponzu citrus dipping sauce. Sukiyaki is a beef and vegetable dish in which very thinly sliced beef is simmered with various vegetables and a sweetened, flavored soy sauce. Yose-Nabe is a somewhat lighter dish featuring seafood, chicken, and assorted vegetables cooked in broth together in a hot pot and served with ponzu sauce. All three dishes can be ordered with regular beef or Kobe beef and both choices are good. If you’re in a splurging mood, go for the Kobe.

If you’re in the mood for sushi, Chiyo serves a wide assortment, including most of the standards you’ve come to enjoy at other sushi restaurants. The sushi is fresh and nicely presented without being pretentious.

The hot entrees are also gloriously prepared. You can pick from a number of teriyaki, tempura and sautéed dishes. The servers will help you choose the type of sauces and spiciness that most please your palate.
Dessert is not typically a Japanese specialty but, joyfully, Chiyo is unique: the desserts are very creative and definitely worth saving room for.

Chicago Kalbi is an excellent choice for Yakiniku, the Japanese version of Korean BBQ, particularly if you would like to eat a lighter (but still delicious) version than is found in many authentically Korean restaurants. Chiyo (the owner) is delightfully straightforward about the Japanese influence of the restaurant. She told us that the food is less heavy and less greasy and diners can take advantage of the many Japanese side dishes that go perfectly with the barbecue.

We recommend that you start your meal with some shared appetizers, which are made to order. We love the Pajun, featuring an assortment of squid, beef and green onions battered with a crepe and grilled to form a pancake. If you’re an oyster lover, the delicious Guljun is a similar pancake creation with oysters. Another delight is the Yakimandu, twice cooked dumplings with beef and vegetables. If you’re a tartare fan, you’ll enjoy Yuk-Hwe, a Japanese style tartare made from raw seasoned beef tenderloin with a raw egg yolk.

Asian BBQ refers to the tender, thin slices of marinated meat that guests prepare on a wood grill right at the table. You can choose a variety of meats: Kalbi (short ribs), Bulgogi (beef ribeye), Oeji-Gui (sliced pork), Saewoo-Gui (shrimp) and Ojinguh-Gui (squid) and just some of the choices. You can order Kobe beef and prime ribeye if you prefer.

Chicago Kalbi also offers a wide range of Korean noodle dishes and sautéed entrées, which are worth a try if you’re not in the mood for the BBQ. The creamy green tea ice cream is a refreshing finish to your meal.
And here’s a tip: when you sit down at either Chiyo or Chicago Kalbi, ask what’s on the “special” menu. That’s what the insiders do. You’ll discover a new world of authentic dishes that your server will gladly walk you through. Enjoy the journey.

DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you'd like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact dinewise@kurman.com. You can follow DineWise on Twitter @Dinewise and follow us @kurmanstaff

90 Miles Cuban Café: It’s like going home to your Cuban neighborhood

90 Miles Cuban Café
3101 N. Clybourn, Chicago
(773) 248-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; 9 a.m.- 6 p.m., Sun.
or
2540 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL 60618
773-227-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Sat.; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun.

Prices: sandwiches, $4.25-$6.50; entrees, $8.95-$9.95; sides, $1.50-$3.00

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine

We don’t know how many times we had driven by 90 Miles Cuban Café on Clybourn before we decided to stop in. From the outside it looked like a simple, standalone makeshift sandwich shop that was hardly worth a second look except for the fact that it was so unusual looking. So when we walked in, the magical décor, featuring myriads of newspaper and magazine layouts from pre-Castro Havana pasted on the walls to form a three walled, room sized collage, took us quite by surprise. Our smiles went from ear to ear.

The other surprise was the culinary-oriented, professional staff, including chef-owners Alberto and Christine Gonzalez, who have an obvious passion for what they are doing. In addition to the sandwich board covering both breakfast and lunch/dinner items, there is a second chalkboard featuring daily entrée specials that are much more inspiration than improvisation, which is a good thing. What is most apparent is that this surprising eatery has an obviously loyal following—there isn’t much seating but this place does a great take-out business.

We also learned that the owners had opened up shop in Wicker Park with a second, larger location. So take your choice. When you’re in the mood for casual Cuban homespun fare at breakfast, lunch or dinnertime, this is a restaurant to try.

If you’re up early, a Cuban breakfast sandwich makes a fine choice. Choose from an omelet sandwich with onion, onion and ham, ham and Swiss cheese or an omelet with maduro (sweet plaintain). Enjoy it with a strong Café Cubano or a Café Con Leche (with milk).

Lunchtime is grilled sandwich time, and there are many to choose from. We tried the Cubano, made with Cuban ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. Good and authentic. We also liked the Media Noche, a variation made with midnight ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard on sweet bread. Other sandwich choices include the Bistec, steak with Romaine lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, shoestring potatoes and a chimicurri; Pollo, chicken with Romaine lettuce, tomato and grilled onions; Lechon, roast pork with Romaine lettuce, grilled onions and sweet plantains. The Frita Cubana is a Cuban version of the hamburger and the Guajirito comes with your choice of meat or tofu, green plantains; the Croqueta features ham, grilled onions and Swiss cheese.

Regular entrées are served with white rice, black beans and sweet plantains. Choose from Bistec (steak), Pollo (chicken), Lechon (roast pork), Ropa Vieja (shredded beef), Tofu or a Veggie. Every day, there are entrée specials, which give you an authentic taste of some Cuban specialties.

The side orders do a great job of giving you a sampling of some foods that are common Cuban street fare. There are several flavors of empanadas: beef, ground soy, veggie, chorizo, goat cheese or guava and cheese. You might try the Yuca con mojo (cassava in garlic sauce, the Yuca frita (fried cassava) or the Yuca Rellena (stuffed cassava). If you’re a plantain lover, you can choose Maduros (sweet plantains) or Tostones (green plaintains). A nice side dish with a sandwich is the Mariquitas (plantain chips).

If you’ve got room for some dessert, the Pastelitos are delicious—choose between guava or guava and cream cheese. The bread pudding is rich and filling and, on the lighter side, there’s a yummy traditional flan. To round things out, there are some cold Cuban soft drinks and tropical shakes, which we haven’t tried but will likely be a refreshing treat when the Chicago weather warms up.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. For more information, please call (312) 651-9000 or stay in the know by visiting their blog at http://www.gotbuzzatkurman.com. You can also follow us on Twitter @dinewise and @kurmanstaff