Evergreen is a Chinatown spot that satisfies

Evergreen
2411 S. Wentworth Avenue
Chicago, IL 60616
(312) 225-8898

Hours:
Open 7 days 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Sunday-Thursday
11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday

Prices: $8-$14 for regular entrées; up to $30 for special fish or seafood dishes

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise

Discussing what is the best Chinese restaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown is like debating which is better, Mac or PC. There will never be a clear winner because different folks like different experiences. Plus, there are just too many choices in Chinatown for any one restaurant to gain the majority vote. So, what one should hope for in a visit to Chinatown is high quality, but not necessarily superlative, food and an enjoyable time strolling through the neighborhood’s gift shops, bakeries and food markets. When we recently accompanied our friends to Evergreen restaurant, based on their recommendation, we had very good food and a quite pleasant experience.

Evergreen is handsomely, but not necessarily stylishly, appointed. The dining room is large and able to handle big groups. The menu is divided into numerous sections featuring fare most Americans would be familiar with plus some enhanced house specialties. An additional green-colored menu presents dishes that are a bit more authentically Chinese. All in all, there is a very large selection from which to choose.

We started with a variety of shared appetizers. The traditional egg rolls, hot and fresh, were delicious. We also ordered some tasty fried wontons which were of homemade quality and surprisingly non-greasy. Other good choices were the pot stickers and chicken lettuce wraps.

For main courses, we ordered three entrees and a side of Szechuan stir-fried green beans. Our server informed us they had no green beans and suggested pea pods instead, which turned out to be a fine substitute. When in a Chinese restaurant, we always hunt for the Crispy Shrimp and Walnuts, which is usually not on the menu. At Evergreen we were excited to find it. With its slightly sweet juxtaposition of chewy and crunchy, it’s a unique recipe. Evergreen’s rendition was as good as any we’ve had, which is quite a compliment.

We were surprised when our foodie friend ordered Cantonese-style Chicken Chow Mein, but once it was served we totally understood: It’s a beautifully presented dish that’s infinitely better than the chopped-up concoction you get at your typical Chinese take-out. Finally, we shared a Crispy Duck with Taro Root. This dish, from the green “authentic” menu, featured a nice breaded boneless duck breast and resembled a shepherd’s pie. Sandwiched in between two layers of duck meat was a layer of mashed taro root, which has the texture of mashed potatoes but a unique, pleasing flavor.

We had no room for dessert, but with several Chinese bakeries on the street, finding a delectable sweet while strolling nearby is easy. Enjoy the neighborhood.

Note: DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you'd like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact DineWise@kurman.com.