de cero: A modern day taqueria814 W. Randolph St.
Chicago, IL 60607
312-455-8114
http://decerotaqueria.com/
Taco price range: $3.25-$4.85
Entrée price range: $11.75-$18.15
Hours: lunch is served Mon.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.
Dinner: Mon.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m.
There are probably hundreds of taquerias throughout Chicagoland, and one we find intriguing and fun is de cero, a popular spot in the heart of West Loop’s “restaurant row.” This casual, minimalist eatery serves up a creative, flavorful array of tacos and other Mexican-inspired dishes. It’s the kind of place that pleases foodies and non-foodies alike because, while the creations are interesting and the ingredients are of high quality, there is no pretense. de cero offers a wide variety of contemporary takes on traditional Mexican street food, with an urban sensibility that’s quite in tune with today’s tastes.
The signature dishes at de cero are the amazing tacos; there are 16 varieties on the menu plus additional daily specials. All are served in fresh, homemade soft tortillas. The tacos can be ordered ala carte (3-4 per person are quite filling) or by the combination plate which includes 8 tacos, any flavor, plus 3 house salsas for $32. Some of our favorite flavors include the chipotle chicken, the sautéed salmon, tres quesos (three cheeses), the battered shrimp, the vegetarian black bean and the braised duck with sweet corn salsa.
The menu covers a lot of ground beyond the wonderful tacos. Cold appetizers include delicious homemade quacamole, a nice jicama salad and a refreshing shrimp and scallop ceviche. Hot appetizer choices include the tasty duck nachos, sizzling cumin rubbed ribeye skewers and hearty mushroom quesadillas.
Diners who prefer an entrée course have many excellent choices. The marinated carne asada skirt steak is deliciously seasoned and served with pinot beans and basmati rice. Mole lovers will enjoy the boneless grilled chicken mole with poblano sauce, basmati rice and sautéed greens. Additional items include the large chipotle chicken burrito, grilled ahi tuna and fajitas (shrimp or steak).
If you still have room for dessert, you will delight in the unique guava cheesecake.
de cero is popular, attracting a wide-ranging clientele. There could be a brief wait, but it’s worth it. To avoid the largest crowds, try arriving early or later during the lunch or dinner periods.
Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at http://gotbuzzatkurman.com/.
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